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In this video, we are going to outline the process of miking a full drum kit.
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Now, there are a couple of different techniques to do this utilizing different numbers and types of microphones.
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We’re going to walk through a couple of basic techniques that are commonly used in live sound and recording.
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Let’s start by taking a look at a drum kit and identify the different components.
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First, we have the bass drum.
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Also commonly called a kick drum, because the drum is played by striking the drum with a mallet attached to a foot pedal.
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This is the largest drum in the kit and sits directly on the ground on its side.
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It produces a very low punchy sound.
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Next we have the snare drum.
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Its called such because of the band of wires strung across the bottom head of the drum called snares.
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The snares allow the drum to produce its signature tight crack sound.
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The kick and the snare are the core elements of the drum kit and are used to create the main beat in a song.
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Now we have the tom-toms.
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These come in many sizes and just about any number of them can be used to create different drum kit arrangements and setups.
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A traditional drum kit will use either two or three tom-toms.
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These drums are pitched differently, depending on their size and tuning.
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Next we have the cymbals.
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Now these also come in a variety of types and sizes with all different functions.
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First we have the hi-hat.
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The hi-hat consists of two cymbals.
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One is placed upside down with the other on top of it.
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A special stand is used to hold them together and a foot pedal allows the player to open and close them together for a variety of different sounds.
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The hi-hat is most commonly used as a main time keeping element.
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Paired together with the kick and snare, they create the back beat.
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The ride cymbal serves a similar purpose.
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Typically the largest of the cymbal arsenal, the ride cymbal has a ping or glassy sound
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that is often used as an alternative to the hi-hat in keeping time.
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This provides some different textural options.
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And then we have the crash cymbals.
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These come in a variety of sizes and are thinner than the ride cymbal to produce a more explosive and washy sound.
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These are most commonly used to accent musical parts and add some punch and energy on the downbeat of a transition in a song.
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Like when going from a verse to a chorus.
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These are the primary pieces that just about any drum set will include.
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There are a few other types of cymbals such as splashes, china cymbals and gongs that may or may not be included in a set as well.
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Now that we have a basic kit set up let’s begin to mike it.
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In an ideal situation, you want to mike as many parts of the drum set as you can, individually.
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Depending on what equipment you have available, this might not always be possible.
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We’ll start with the simplest way to mike-up the set with the least amount of mics and work our way up to a fully miked kit.
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We’ll run through miking each component in order of importance.
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Obviously, the more mics you have the more of the kit you will be able to mike-up.
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We’re going to begin with a simple stereo overhead miking technique using just two microphones.
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For this video we are only going cover the most common technique used in live sound.
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It’s called a “spaced pair”.
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For overhead microphones, you’ll want to use a pair of condenser microphones with a good high frequency response.
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In this technique both microphones are placed above the drum set, pointing straight down,
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and situated equidistant from the kick drum, keeping the kick and snare as much in the center of the two as possible.
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You want to make sure that the microphones are at least 40 inches, or 1 meter apart from each other.
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This technique will give you a very well balanced stereo image of the complete kit.
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This technique also tends to capture a brighter sound with core focus on the cymbals’ resonances and on the toms.
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Now depending on your equipment or available budget for equipment,
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as well as the amount of reinforcement you need for the drum set, you could stop here and just use overheads
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to capture the whole kit with only two microphones.
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This minimalistic method won’t serve every application,
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but if you are playing in a smaller space or the drums aren’t the driver of the rhythm, this method might be the right option for you.
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If you are creating a secondary mix for broadcasting or recording,
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this method will still allow you to get a nice full drum sound for that secondary mix as well.
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Now let’s keep going and start to add some more mics to the kit.
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Let’s start with the kick drum.
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This is the most important element of the kit to reinforce in the PA.
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The kick drum has a very low sound and is very punchy.
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Because of this it can easily get lost in an ensemble with amplified instruments.
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So, no matter what, you always want to start here.
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Now not just any microphone will work for the kick drum.
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You’ll want to use a dynamic microphone capable of handling low frequencies and reproducing them accurately.
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There are two aspects of the kick drum sound you should be aware of when miking it.
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The attack or snap of the beater striking the drum head
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and the body of the sound provided by the shell.
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You want to find a mic placement that has a good blend of these two elements that best suits your application.
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Placing the microphone closer to the beater head will produce more attack and mid-range.
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This can be a more aggressive sound and won’t capture quite as much of the resonance and body of the drum.
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Positioning the microphone closer to the port hole will give you a warmer slightly softer feel with less attack and mid-range.
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The next drum you want to focus on after the kick is the snare drum.
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The snare typically is not at risk of being lost or washed out by the other instruments in the ensemble like the kick drum
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because of its frequency range and naturally loud volume.
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It is one of the most important pieces of the kit however as it produces the back-beat of the song.
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Being able to add this into the PA gives you more control over the sound and balance between the kick and snare.
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It also allows you to add processing like EQ, compression, and gating, which helps bring clarity to the mix.
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Again, you’ll want to use a dynamic microphone for this.
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Unlike the kick drum though, we aren’t quite as concerned at all with the low end
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because the snare is producing mid- to high frequencies.
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Place the mic in between the hi-hat and the first tom-tom and aim the microphone at the drum.
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The closer you get the mic to the drum head, the more you reduce the bleed from the other pieces of the kit.
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It will also increase the low frequency response of the microphone however,
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and you will get a slightly darker and less open sound from the drum.
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Placing the microphone at different angles will produce different sounds.
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If the mic is placed over the rim, aiming at the center of the head, it will capture more of the attack of the drum.
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Aiming the microphone towards the rim will emphasize the overtones of the drum.
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If the microphone is placed outside of the rim, it will produce a dryer sound with less ring.
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It’s up to you to determine where the mic should sit to produce the sound that best serves your application.
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Now that the kick and snare are miked-up, you might be good to go.
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Depending on the application, the size of the venue and the type of sound you are looking for,
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this could very well get you what you need and so far we’ve only used four microphones.
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If we want to keep adding microphones to achieve a fuller drum mix and more control over the various elements of the set,
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the next component to focus on is the Hi-Hat.
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Similar to the overheads, this should be a small diaphragm condenser microphone with good high end response.
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Place the microphone 2-3 inches / 5-8 cm away from the edge of the Hi-Hat,
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but not pointed directly at the edge.
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Aim the microphone about an inch from the edge.
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That will give you clear and concise sound for the hats.
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If the microphone is aimed directly at the edge you’ll get a chuffing sound when the drummer closes the hats.
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After the Hi-Hat we can start miking up the Toms.
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For toms you’ll want to use a Dynamic microphone, preferably with a Cardioid pick up pattern.
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This is will help cut down on bleed from the cymbals.
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There are many different models of microphones these days that are made specifically for tom drums.
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With toms you’re going to want to place the microphone over the top rim of the drum pointed at the head.
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You’ll want it fairly close to the drum head as well.
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Somewhere between 2-4 inches / 5-10 cm.
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Again, the closer you get, the less cymbal bleed you will have.
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And with that we have successfully miked up an entire drum kit.
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If you want to get really fancy here, we can add a second microphone to the snare.
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For this application, the second microphone is placed underneath the drum pointed at the snare wires on the bottom head.
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This microphone will pick up the sound of the snares specifically
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and will add more clarity and definition to the sound of the drum
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and will capture ghost notes and lighter nuances much more clearly.
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So, there you have it.
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All the ins-and-outs of miking up a drum kit.
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Thanks for watching. And we’ll see you next time.